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Karim E36
12-28-2005, 10:49 PM
I found a set of period-correct wheels for my 510. They are AR Libres (probably manufactured 25-35 years ago).

Can anybody confirm if it is safe to use such old wheels on a track?
I heard that aluminum wheels become brittle as they age and stress cracks can develop. Is this a serious issue?

Would the track junkies recommend newer (more expensive) wheels?

Thanks in advance.

Karim.
1971 Datsun 510.
Lee
12-29-2005, 12:26 AM
Those wheels are used by the 2002 crowd. Just check them carefully.
blacksheep
12-29-2005, 10:19 AM
if you want to be 100% sure you can get wheels magnafluxed and x-rayed to check for cracks and weaknesses.

Check with a company like this > http://www.qualitynde.com/default.htm
Karim E36
12-29-2005, 10:51 AM
Would a careful visual inspection be enough?

Is the fluorescent dye of any use?
Karim E36
12-29-2005, 10:52 AM
if you want to be 100% sure you can get wheels magnafluxed and x-rayed to check for cracks and weaknesses.

Check with a company like this > http://www.qualitynde.com/default.htm

Any idea of how much it costs?

I am afraid it might be more than the wheels themselves ;)
blacksheep
12-29-2005, 11:08 AM
Is the fluorescent dye of any use?fluorescent dye = magnaflux

For the price, just call them! Maybe it's not as bad as you think.

Some people prefer to go with modern forged wheels like BBS or Volk Racing TE-37's for strength and lightness. But they're expensive.
Karim E36
12-29-2005, 12:18 PM
fluorescent dye = magnaflux


ooops ;) LOL
Lee
12-30-2005, 04:03 PM
New wheels are always better than old ones. You can elect to buy Minilite/Superlite that look period correct or go with Lenso wheels, available in 13 x 7.5 and dirt cheap. If I had to run 13" wheels, they are the ones I would buy.

http://exospeed.com/images/subcats/lenso4.gif
Karim E36
12-30-2005, 06:17 PM
Unfortunately the Lenso VSD's do not exist with the correct bolt pattern and offset for a 510.

I also think fitting a 7.5" wide wheel might be a problem. I think 7" is close to the maximum for a lowered/un-flared 510.

Keep the suggestions coming... ;)

Thanks,

Karim.

PS: Would it be possible to get panasports/minilites/superlites locally?
Lee
12-30-2005, 06:21 PM
2002s are know to be problematic when it comes to fit wheels. I still managed to fit 15 x 7.5 wheels as the stock ones were merely 4.5" wide. Why buy locally? It is possible but most of the time you get ripped-off. Find a good source in the US and have them shipped. I can ask my buddies who race 510s what offset they use to fit wide rubber.
Karim E36
12-31-2005, 12:11 AM
What about steel wheels?

Not too too heavy, pretty stiff and pretty cheap...

www.diamondracingwheels.com (http://www.diamondracingwheels.com)

Good or bad idea?
Lee
12-31-2005, 12:43 AM
Weight of your wheels will be extremely important. The inertia can really be felt both on acceleration and in braking. The lighter the wheels, the better. Especially if you do not run a 300HP motor...
Emre
01-02-2006, 11:04 AM
www.diamondracingwheels.com (http://www.diamondracingwheels.com)

Good or bad idea?Diamond Racing Wheels are not your typical steel wheels. They are VERY light yet reasonably strong. Tons of circle track guys use them back in the US. Ive seen a couple of BMW CCA Club Racers with E21's and 2002's running them at Lime Rock. Diamond offers custom offsets, bolt-patterns, etc. They are very popular among the Grassroots Motorsports crowd for their combination of strength, light weight, and low cost.

The only downside is that they are not hub-centered, but lug-centered. I suppose as long as you have wheel studs, this should not be a huge issue. Also, you'll need to have them balanced at a place that can handle lug-centered wheels (most shops have this equipment, so it shouldn't be a big deal).

Emre
Phil
01-02-2006, 01:32 PM
The only downside is that they are not hub-centered, but lug-centered. I suppose as long as you have wheel studs, this should not be a huge issue. Also, you'll need to have them balanced at a place that can handle lug-centered wheels (most shops have this equipment, so it shouldn't be a big deal).


Having hubcentric wheels is important if you use wheel bolts both for safety and to mimimize shimmy due to front end problems not corrected entirely by balancing wheels and tires, especially when you re-mount and don't line things up with the same bolt hole.

I've also seen new, inexpensive aftermarket wheels fail--in one case catastrophically so-- due to the stresses of track use. Anything which passes German/European TUV standards is going to be OK but you should definitely check with a reliable and expert source like the Tire Rack before making a purchase.

Do your homework and don't trust the vendor who may only be interested in sales and not safety.

Phil