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View Full Version : Many questions on E30/M42 318is



JayEffay
07-26-2005, 01:44 PM
Q1: the lollipops holding the front control arm: both of them have their inner bolt missing. One is sheared, the other is missing it's head. There is no apparent movement, but this car was probably worked on extensively with a zip gun. I torque everything, and so does my mechanics (on my request, I supply the torque wrench). I've read about the special lubricant needed to re-install the lollipops bushings. Where can I get a small quantity (just for one re-mounting) or how can I make my own?

Q2: clutch pedal travel and stiffness...
I saw how to adjust the clutch pedal stiffness. When I release or engage the clutch, the engaging happens at the very beginning of the pedal stroke, in a zone where the spring is rather soft than in the later stronger feel zone at the end of the pedal stroke. I am under the impression that an early clutch release is a symptom of a worn-off clutch. Am I right, should I have it inspected and possibly replaced or is that only a matter of adjustment?

Q3: the car came equipped with a motorcycle muffler. When I downshift or slow down with the engine engaged, it goes rat-pat-pat-rat. I suspect the back pressure is way too low. Does this put my exhaust engine valves at risk? Anyway, I like a quiet car so I plan to have an OEM BMW muffler installed.

Q4: is the O2 sensor from E34/M20 1989 the same as the E30/M42? They seem to have identical first group of serial number, but the cable is of different lenght. I haven't checked the exact connector yet. Could I simply cut and substitute the cabling and do a good quality electrical splice ?

Q5: The car starts nicely when cold. When hot and left with the engine off for fifteen minutes, the engine requires around seven seconds of cranking before starting. When it starts, it starts very weakly. That's A LOT of turns, putting undue stress on the starter and gears and battery. It seems that if I leave the ignition switch on for ten seconds, it reduces the cranking to about three seconds (still way to many turns). Is that because of the O2 sensor? The previous owner told me he was told it is probably the injectors. I find this odd as an explanation...

Q6: I replaced the front wheel bearings, lining and disks. While remounting the caliper frames, I wondered if I should put anti-seize, thread lock or nothing on the bolt. I put anti-seize and retorqued them to 87 ft.lb. I had no specs on that and I digged that numerical value from http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/index.html (http://www.esatclear.ie/%7Ebpurcell/index.html)

Q6-b: same problem for the caliper-to-guide pins bolts: I torqued them to 15 ft-lb from standard bolt size tables (uncomplete) but I cleaned the holes with brake pad cleaner and then put blue threadlock compound on the bolts. Should I remove them and retorque them?

Q7- Some heater fan blower impeller blades are broken. Irony is that I had two of those impellers in my part shed and in a fit of cleaning rage, I threw them away (they have been cluttering my place for maybe five years). That was about two weeks before my E34 failed on me and I bought my brand new secondhand E30. GROAN ! Where can I locate fan impellers without having to replace the whole motor assembly?


Oh, and yes, I received my Bentley manual from Amazon.ca this morning. I hadn't time to do anything more than simply leaf through it but I'm eager to do so.

Silverblades181
07-31-2005, 08:00 PM
I have an E30 318is with the M42 and I have the same problem as Question 5. The only difference is it doesn't take that long to start. But it starts very weak, even if I give it more gas... and then boom after a while it runs normally. I found it happens during hot and somewhat humid days. When it's cool, it runs fantasticly from the start. Hopefully someone can answer this...